Day 24 – The Day Flies, Champagne, and Lamb Shanks Ruled

After yesterday’s Nullarbor gauntlet, we were ready for a more pleasant day. And yes — we got one! Not just because of the ride, but because of who we shared the day with. That’s also why I’m writing this post the morning after, instead of the usual night-of-blog routine.

Our ride was short — only 2.5 hours — so technically, we could have slept in. But considering yesterday’s heat and wind, plus the quality of our accommodation, we were keen to leave early. Daylight savings and Penong being 1 hour 45 minutes ahead made our 9:30 departure feel more like 6:45. Early indeed.

First stop: the Pantry Tree. I’d missed it on our way to Perth, so a bit of research ensured no mistakes this time. A tree adorned with pans of all shapes and sizes — people had nailed messages, quirky notes, and of course, pans. We couldn’t donate one ourselves — there’s only so much luggage a bike can carry — but we appreciated the creativity and fun.

Next, breakfast in Ceduna. We aimed for the Foreshore Hotel, but South Australia decided to throw a Labor Day curveball, and we missed the cutoff by mere minutes. Fortunately, Ceduna Cafe & Restaurant was open. Noune had a wrap, I had a pie, and both were delicious — fuel for the day ahead.

From there, it was 1 hour 45 minutes to Minnipa. We had a quick refuel at Poochera and arrived to find the town eerily quiet — everything closed. Including our hotel. We strolled a bit, discovered that the flies here make Melbourne’s worst look like amateurs, and sent a message to the hotel. Helen, the owner, responded instantly, opened the doors, and offered beer and champagne while we waited to settle in.

Even the flies joined in — a few rushed inside during check-in, but Noune dispatched them with deadly precision.

Dinner was the highlight. We met Rusty (Russell) — who prefers “cook” over chef — his wife Kate, and Helen. Conversations ranged from food to nature to culture, all while Rusty served up culinary masterpieces: lamb shank, parmy, prawns with magic chili sauce, dessert, chips with aioli, beer, and of course, champagne. The evening was pure relaxation, in the company of warm, hospitable people, a perfect counterpoint to yesterday’s Nullarbor ordeal.