Day 19 – Merredin to Kalgoorlie: Cold Mornings, Museum Fails, and Earthquakes
We woke up in Merredin to what felt like an Arctic blast. Okay, not quite, but 8 degrees is the kind of “brisk” that makes you question why you ever left bed. The house we stayed in clearly didn’t believe in heating, so we packed up fast and fled to the bike, where at least moving creates the illusion of warmth.
Breakfast? Nope. We decided to push through to our first stop — Southern Cross, about an hour away.
Southern Cross
Southern Cross turned out to be more than just a dot on the map. Named after the famous constellation (yes, the same one tattooed on too many shoulders), the town is a historic goldfields hub that’s been around since the 1890s. Today it’s small but friendly, with just enough charm to make you want to stay for lunch.
We did exactly that, settling into the Southern Cross Coffee Lounge. And let me say this: the coffee was good. Really good. For someone suffering from caffeine withdrawal (Melbourne: 10 shots per day; Road trip: 3–4 at best), that’s high praise. Add a choc chip muffin that deserves its own fan club, and I was basically reborn.
We thought about checking out the Yilgarn History Museum too — but of course, it only opens after 1 PM on Tuesdays. Apparently, Tuesdays at noon are too wild for history. So, onward we went.
Goldfields Woodlands National Park
Another hour, another stop — or so we thought. Goldfields Woodlands National Park is 120,000 hectares of rugged forest, salt lakes, and wildlife. Except… the fun parts all require a four-wheel drive. And just to rub it in, the very first thing we saw at the entrance was a giant “NO MOTORCYCLES” sign. So, we did the next best thing: stretched our legs for ten minutes and pretended that counted as “exploring the park.”
Almost Meeting Camels
The next stop was supposed to be Coolgardie Camel Farm. Finally, a chance to meet the camels we’d been warned about! (WA apparently has thousands roaming the outback, but so far, not one suicidal kangaroo cousin had shown up.) But in classic fashion, I blew right past the turn-off. I asked Noune if she wanted to go back. Her answer? “Kalgoorlie.” So, no camels. Frankly, I don’t think we missed much. A camel is a camel. Unless it speaks five languages, I’m not impressed.
Kalgoorlie
At last, Kalgoorlie. A mining town with a long, shiny history and a nightlife that’s… well, let’s say colorful. The economy here runs on FIFO (fly-in, fly-out) miners — young, fit, cashed-up, and with nowhere to spend it. Naturally, this attracts an equally “motivated” workforce of sex workers, who are more than happy to lighten their wallets. Supply meets demand, simple economics.
We checked into our hotel, just in time for the whole building to shake like we’d been hit by an earthquake. A second tremor came 20 minutes later. After some mild panic, I asked the waiter at dinner what was going on. His response? “Oh, that’s just the mine blasting.” Apparently, the ground regularly moves here, and nobody bats an eye. I guess you get used to it.
After dinner we wandered around town, checking out the courthouse and the town hall. Noune had read Kal by Judy Nunn and expected the place to jump off the page. In reality, it was interesting… but maybe not novel-worthy. Still, between the architecture and the odd mix of vibes, it was worth the stroll.
And so Day 19 wrapped up as usual: a bit of blogging, some reading, and wondering whether tomorrow will bring camels, kangaroos, or just another “earthquake.”
